Post by twodoctors on Feb 12, 2021 9:05:18 GMT
I have shot all I comps and I have a 3 weeks gap before my next round. There is only one thing for me to do: take another gun apart! This time my Ux SA-10 :facepalm:
Note that I wasn't brave enough, or clever enough, to take it completely apart. I can predict some springs flying away and bits falling off. I'm not clever enough to put it all back.
So let's begin!
Those of you who own one will know there is a lever to allow the slide to move back far enough to allow it to be removed. You will also need to remove the thread protector at the barrel first. This is what the lever does.
In lock position:
In unlock position:
Not the slide return spring block moves backward when it is in the open position.
Next are the 2 pins that holds the mechanism to the frame. (And also why I know I can do this part without breaking anything). One next to the same lever as per picture. One in the grip area. On mine, you need to knock it out Right to Left. The pin itself has some kind of locking thread at one end to stop it from drifting out (unlike more of the firearms I have taken apart before...).
Once that's out, the only thing left holding the mechanism to the frame is that slide release lever. This is held in by a leaf spring which is screwed onto the frame. I would advise against removing the spring. Instead, gently work the lever out by turning it left and right. When it is partially out, you will notice that the bar to it has a notch. Turn the switch 180 degrees and keep sliding it out.
Or you can use a screwdriver to keep the spring away from the lever.
And it is out.
Sorry I forgot to take a photo of the whole mechanism assembly. (The guide, like the ones I wrote before, was an after thought!)
Anyway the interesting bits. The trigger mechanism of course!
Now my own criticism of the trigger on this is in DA. This is how it works.
To the left is the trigger bar. The black part is the hammer. Where they interact in DA is as per marked. As you pull the trigger, the bar moves forward, rotating the hammer, to the point where the contact is broken and the hammer drops. This hits the CO2 actuator and releases CO2 to fire the pellet.
And a video of DA
photos.app.goo.gl/mhawJudM5875zRAj9
In the hand, the trigger just get progressively heavy, and the a sudden hammer drop. I have tried lots of different grip, but always snatch the gun.
A video of DA pull from my SA10 review.
photos.app.goo.gl/qHJuBs9q3G19aqRp6
Can one improve this? Possibly...
One can lighten the hammer spring, so the weight of pull is also lighten. The risk of course is the force of the hammer is not strong enough to hit the CO2 actuator, or not hit is for long enough to release enough CO2 for a shot. Also it is a torsion spring not it would be difficult to manipulate. If someone has a mean of making new torsion spring it might be worth a go.
I won't touch the sear surface on these, as similar thing can happen. The hammer may be release prematurely, not only affecting the force of the hammer, but also the timing on the indexing (Thanks to Wobbly Bob on UBC on a different topic).
What might be worth trying is to put a overtravel screw on the trigger. That should reduce the snatching effect of the excess travel due to the sudden hammer drop. I think that is an idea worth pursuing for someone with a 3D printer, tap and die set and a small grub screw.
In any case, there is no good reason to shoot this in DA mode. In my own view, it is "cool" to "load" the pistol by pulling the slide. I don't know why anyone would want to shoot in DA mode (unless in self defence, which this is not designed for obviously). Overtravel of the trigger shoe can cause poor accuracy though, in both SA or DA mode, especially with heavy triggers.
In SA then.
I personally find the trigger very nice. If you have one of these pistols, you will feel 3 stages of the trigger: The indexing of the mag, movement between the hammer and the sear, and the break. Here is a video of the trigger from my SA10 review.
photos.app.goo.gl/GjaMybPkkW37uJg16
And here is why:
Uncocked:
Cocked:
You can see from here how much "work" needs to be done to overcome the contact due to the big contact surface. Having said that, 3.5lb is actually very good for an air pistol. Unless, like me, you are more used to 1.5lb (or less) trigger. A trigger job I think is an unnecessary risk to take on this particular gun.
A video of it in action. I had to activate it with an allen key as the trigger bar covers the mechanism.
photos.app.goo.gl/V7WWiGiJ5dTkQ8eH9
(The following paragraph is not a challenge. I don't know if anyone sell spare parts for these pistols at the moment. I am not a gunsmith, and this is only a view from a nobody. Don't do it unless you know exactly what you are doing)
One can consider reshaping the hammer side of the contact so that there is less contact and therefore less work for the sear. Take too much off and the hammer will probably not lock or even go double tap. Same problem if the angle is wrong. Or it might go the other way and trigger bar will not be able to move the sear enough to fire. A very dangerous game to play here. I certainly won't attempt it unless I have spare parts to hand.
So that's how this pistol works. Putting it all back together is just the reverse of the above. My only other tip is for the slide locking lever. I used a screwdriver to pull the leaf spring back and slot the lever straight back in.
Another issue I have, twice now, is the "nut" on the hammer falls out. Happened to be for the second time today.
This time I glued it back in with Blue Loctite (don't have Red one). Fired a few shots with the slide in to make sure it is properly pushed in place.
That's all I have for you. Hope you found that interesting. :thumb:
And please don't try anything stupid! Don't be a :loser:!
Stay safe!
Note that I wasn't brave enough, or clever enough, to take it completely apart. I can predict some springs flying away and bits falling off. I'm not clever enough to put it all back.
So let's begin!
Those of you who own one will know there is a lever to allow the slide to move back far enough to allow it to be removed. You will also need to remove the thread protector at the barrel first. This is what the lever does.
In lock position:
In unlock position:
Not the slide return spring block moves backward when it is in the open position.
Next are the 2 pins that holds the mechanism to the frame. (And also why I know I can do this part without breaking anything). One next to the same lever as per picture. One in the grip area. On mine, you need to knock it out Right to Left. The pin itself has some kind of locking thread at one end to stop it from drifting out (unlike more of the firearms I have taken apart before...).
Once that's out, the only thing left holding the mechanism to the frame is that slide release lever. This is held in by a leaf spring which is screwed onto the frame. I would advise against removing the spring. Instead, gently work the lever out by turning it left and right. When it is partially out, you will notice that the bar to it has a notch. Turn the switch 180 degrees and keep sliding it out.
Or you can use a screwdriver to keep the spring away from the lever.
And it is out.
Sorry I forgot to take a photo of the whole mechanism assembly. (The guide, like the ones I wrote before, was an after thought!)
Anyway the interesting bits. The trigger mechanism of course!
Now my own criticism of the trigger on this is in DA. This is how it works.
To the left is the trigger bar. The black part is the hammer. Where they interact in DA is as per marked. As you pull the trigger, the bar moves forward, rotating the hammer, to the point where the contact is broken and the hammer drops. This hits the CO2 actuator and releases CO2 to fire the pellet.
And a video of DA
photos.app.goo.gl/mhawJudM5875zRAj9
In the hand, the trigger just get progressively heavy, and the a sudden hammer drop. I have tried lots of different grip, but always snatch the gun.
A video of DA pull from my SA10 review.
photos.app.goo.gl/qHJuBs9q3G19aqRp6
Can one improve this? Possibly...
One can lighten the hammer spring, so the weight of pull is also lighten. The risk of course is the force of the hammer is not strong enough to hit the CO2 actuator, or not hit is for long enough to release enough CO2 for a shot. Also it is a torsion spring not it would be difficult to manipulate. If someone has a mean of making new torsion spring it might be worth a go.
I won't touch the sear surface on these, as similar thing can happen. The hammer may be release prematurely, not only affecting the force of the hammer, but also the timing on the indexing (Thanks to Wobbly Bob on UBC on a different topic).
What might be worth trying is to put a overtravel screw on the trigger. That should reduce the snatching effect of the excess travel due to the sudden hammer drop. I think that is an idea worth pursuing for someone with a 3D printer, tap and die set and a small grub screw.
In any case, there is no good reason to shoot this in DA mode. In my own view, it is "cool" to "load" the pistol by pulling the slide. I don't know why anyone would want to shoot in DA mode (unless in self defence, which this is not designed for obviously). Overtravel of the trigger shoe can cause poor accuracy though, in both SA or DA mode, especially with heavy triggers.
In SA then.
I personally find the trigger very nice. If you have one of these pistols, you will feel 3 stages of the trigger: The indexing of the mag, movement between the hammer and the sear, and the break. Here is a video of the trigger from my SA10 review.
photos.app.goo.gl/GjaMybPkkW37uJg16
And here is why:
Uncocked:
Cocked:
You can see from here how much "work" needs to be done to overcome the contact due to the big contact surface. Having said that, 3.5lb is actually very good for an air pistol. Unless, like me, you are more used to 1.5lb (or less) trigger. A trigger job I think is an unnecessary risk to take on this particular gun.
A video of it in action. I had to activate it with an allen key as the trigger bar covers the mechanism.
photos.app.goo.gl/V7WWiGiJ5dTkQ8eH9
(The following paragraph is not a challenge. I don't know if anyone sell spare parts for these pistols at the moment. I am not a gunsmith, and this is only a view from a nobody. Don't do it unless you know exactly what you are doing)
One can consider reshaping the hammer side of the contact so that there is less contact and therefore less work for the sear. Take too much off and the hammer will probably not lock or even go double tap. Same problem if the angle is wrong. Or it might go the other way and trigger bar will not be able to move the sear enough to fire. A very dangerous game to play here. I certainly won't attempt it unless I have spare parts to hand.
So that's how this pistol works. Putting it all back together is just the reverse of the above. My only other tip is for the slide locking lever. I used a screwdriver to pull the leaf spring back and slot the lever straight back in.
Another issue I have, twice now, is the "nut" on the hammer falls out. Happened to be for the second time today.
This time I glued it back in with Blue Loctite (don't have Red one). Fired a few shots with the slide in to make sure it is properly pushed in place.
That's all I have for you. Hope you found that interesting. :thumb:
And please don't try anything stupid! Don't be a :loser:!
Stay safe!