Post by twodoctors on Feb 12, 2021 8:55:49 GMT
(Just copying and pasting some of my stuff from AGF which new members may find helpful / may generate more traffic here)
Well, it's only a matter of time before I open this one up also. :facepalm:
Before I go on, just want to acknowledge that I'm not the first person to do a disassembly guide on this. Using a quick Google search, there aren't many however. I only found 1 that is remotely useful, and that's made by Nick Hulme (Magic 9), but the video quality isn't great and I ran into one or two problems when bits on mine "fell off" that didn't in his video. :facepalm::facepalm: There's another video made by a (I think German) dude, but I have no idea what he was trying to say!
Please watch Nick's video on this, but do use my photos for reference for bits that is not so clear.
and those of you who are bilingual:
To open it up, only 3 screws. 2 on the right hand side, and up just under the rear sight/scope rail.
If you are "lucky", all the pins will stay on the main frame. Not me. The pin holding the sear for single action stay stuck on the cover, so the spring came off. Had a bit of trouble working out how it went back. This is how it should look.
Anyway, from this point you just take bits off at a time, starting with the link bar. This bar operates the hand which index the magazine on trigger pull.
Next is the CO2 port and valve. It is a tight fit. They do come apart at the joints if that helps. As Nick said in his video, the valve and the CO2 outlet port can come apart (mine did). Easy to put back together. They are joint together by a seal.
From this point it is the hammer or the trigger. Which comes off first, it's up to you.
And that's it. That's probably all that you need to take off. If you want to you can also take the magazine arm out for greasing.
Just make sure the pin holding the magazine doesn't fly away!
What Nick didn't show you (because it didn't happen to him) was what's on the cover.
That's the hand that index the magazine. There is a leaf spring which guides it forward when it is lifted up by the link bar described earlier. Note also the small spring at the corner. In Nick's video I think that was on the frame side of the assembly. Mine stayed on the cover.
When I took mine apart, the arm manage to fall out, and I had no idea how the leaf spring goes back. I had to run the German video a few times, freeze frame, to work out how that goes back. Did the same thing with the sear spring I described above.
Mine was dry as a bone inside. Some of the photos were taken before, some were after, I put loads of molly grease inside. Nick recommends sticking some at the sear, hammer and trigger edges.
The "issue" I had with mine was that the trigger would not reset... I just needed to wait a fraction of the second for it to travel a fraction of a millimetre to reset. Ok for normal target work. Not so good for "speed" shooting that I intend to use it for. That was the reason for opening her up. I didn't bother polishing anything or re-stone any angles. The 586/686 is as good as it will get out of the box. The fact that I had the issues (probably due to little/no grease) shows how tight the tolerance is in this beauty.
Another cautionary tale. Don't touch the hammer spring. I could not remember whether that was a bit of hammer flop like the DW 715 has, especially when the gun was in bits. For whatever reason, I decided to bend the leg on the spring a bit, giving it a bit more tension. Very bad idea. When I put everything back together, the trigger just won't reset. Took me ages to work out what was happening. Took one part out at a time. Finally worked out that the trigger won't reset because the hammer was pushing the hammer bar against a "step". The bar is linked to the trigger, and stopping it would also stop the trigger from resetting. See video.
photos.app.goo.gl/y899mZEg8ou6kHkg8
I had to release the tension back to normal before the trigger will reset again. :facepalm: For an hour I thought I have broken it!
2 other points. As Nick pointed out, the pin holding the hammer bar and the link bar onto the trigger can migrate inwards.
Nick says make it level with the link bar. I find that when you put everything back together, the pin may be pushed back in further. Certainly during one of my reassembly attempt, the pin was pushed back in, and the magazine stops indexing. I made mine tiny bit proud to it will work.
He was also right about the valve and outlet assembly being a beggar to put back in. Make sure it all lines up and be gentle. The tolerance is much tighter than other guns you may have opened up before.
As I said, watch his video. If you can't see what he's doing, come back and look at my pictures!
By the way, the pistol is now shooting fine. Nothing broken (and that's an achievement!). :cool:
Well, it's only a matter of time before I open this one up also. :facepalm:
Before I go on, just want to acknowledge that I'm not the first person to do a disassembly guide on this. Using a quick Google search, there aren't many however. I only found 1 that is remotely useful, and that's made by Nick Hulme (Magic 9), but the video quality isn't great and I ran into one or two problems when bits on mine "fell off" that didn't in his video. :facepalm::facepalm: There's another video made by a (I think German) dude, but I have no idea what he was trying to say!
Please watch Nick's video on this, but do use my photos for reference for bits that is not so clear.
and those of you who are bilingual:
To open it up, only 3 screws. 2 on the right hand side, and up just under the rear sight/scope rail.
If you are "lucky", all the pins will stay on the main frame. Not me. The pin holding the sear for single action stay stuck on the cover, so the spring came off. Had a bit of trouble working out how it went back. This is how it should look.
Anyway, from this point you just take bits off at a time, starting with the link bar. This bar operates the hand which index the magazine on trigger pull.
Next is the CO2 port and valve. It is a tight fit. They do come apart at the joints if that helps. As Nick said in his video, the valve and the CO2 outlet port can come apart (mine did). Easy to put back together. They are joint together by a seal.
From this point it is the hammer or the trigger. Which comes off first, it's up to you.
And that's it. That's probably all that you need to take off. If you want to you can also take the magazine arm out for greasing.
Just make sure the pin holding the magazine doesn't fly away!
What Nick didn't show you (because it didn't happen to him) was what's on the cover.
That's the hand that index the magazine. There is a leaf spring which guides it forward when it is lifted up by the link bar described earlier. Note also the small spring at the corner. In Nick's video I think that was on the frame side of the assembly. Mine stayed on the cover.
When I took mine apart, the arm manage to fall out, and I had no idea how the leaf spring goes back. I had to run the German video a few times, freeze frame, to work out how that goes back. Did the same thing with the sear spring I described above.
Mine was dry as a bone inside. Some of the photos were taken before, some were after, I put loads of molly grease inside. Nick recommends sticking some at the sear, hammer and trigger edges.
The "issue" I had with mine was that the trigger would not reset... I just needed to wait a fraction of the second for it to travel a fraction of a millimetre to reset. Ok for normal target work. Not so good for "speed" shooting that I intend to use it for. That was the reason for opening her up. I didn't bother polishing anything or re-stone any angles. The 586/686 is as good as it will get out of the box. The fact that I had the issues (probably due to little/no grease) shows how tight the tolerance is in this beauty.
Another cautionary tale. Don't touch the hammer spring. I could not remember whether that was a bit of hammer flop like the DW 715 has, especially when the gun was in bits. For whatever reason, I decided to bend the leg on the spring a bit, giving it a bit more tension. Very bad idea. When I put everything back together, the trigger just won't reset. Took me ages to work out what was happening. Took one part out at a time. Finally worked out that the trigger won't reset because the hammer was pushing the hammer bar against a "step". The bar is linked to the trigger, and stopping it would also stop the trigger from resetting. See video.
photos.app.goo.gl/y899mZEg8ou6kHkg8
I had to release the tension back to normal before the trigger will reset again. :facepalm: For an hour I thought I have broken it!
2 other points. As Nick pointed out, the pin holding the hammer bar and the link bar onto the trigger can migrate inwards.
Nick says make it level with the link bar. I find that when you put everything back together, the pin may be pushed back in further. Certainly during one of my reassembly attempt, the pin was pushed back in, and the magazine stops indexing. I made mine tiny bit proud to it will work.
He was also right about the valve and outlet assembly being a beggar to put back in. Make sure it all lines up and be gentle. The tolerance is much tighter than other guns you may have opened up before.
As I said, watch his video. If you can't see what he's doing, come back and look at my pictures!
By the way, the pistol is now shooting fine. Nothing broken (and that's an achievement!). :cool:
