CaptDAR
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The RIF Marshall
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Post by CaptDAR on Jun 14, 2023 13:47:53 GMT
It's a shame really, it is supposedly a limited edition of 1911 examples, so I might end up destroying the lettering that caught my interest in the first place! Yep that would be a shame. As they are quite a rare 1911 here in the UK. Nah, they’re everywhere. Common as muck 😆
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Modski66
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Post by Modski66 on Jun 14, 2023 21:13:27 GMT
Had a look at the magazine valve earlier, it was quite loose, so after a quick clean and re-fit, it almost sealed. 😁 Going to have a closer look tomorrow to see if it just a little nick in the seal, it looks like it is made of PTFE, so should be easy enough to sort out. 🤞
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Post by Wild Bill on Jun 14, 2023 21:13:48 GMT
Yep that would be a shame. As they are quite a rare 1911 here in the UK. Nah, they’re everywhere. Common as muck 😆 I meant ones that shoot steel.
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CaptDAR
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The RIF Marshall
Always count your shots and don’t miss
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Post by CaptDAR on Jun 14, 2023 21:42:10 GMT
That one does. 4.5mm bb #0618 of 1911. What number is your one?
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Post by Wild Bill on Jun 15, 2023 7:05:17 GMT
That one does. 4.5mm bb #0618 of 1911. What number is your one?
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Post by flatrajectory on Jun 15, 2023 9:11:28 GMT
By far the most common cause of leaks on the 1911 magazines is the 6.5x1 O ring that sits in the bottom of the hole that the valve assy sits in. Where the white plastic valve seal butts up against the maazine well. Pete.
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Post by HeadHunter on Jun 15, 2023 9:27:35 GMT
It would be nice to have #1911 (of 1911), or maybe #45, either of those two would command an extra few quid on the 2nd hand market. Mind you '#293 of 1911' would be the ultimate I suppose (corresponds to the date 29th March 1911) or '#329 of 1911' for our colonial cousins with their arse about face calendar system (March 29th 1911). I wonder where those four are ? Even I'd be a tad squeamish about giving anyone of them a cosmetic 'makeover'...
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Post by Wild Bill on Jun 15, 2023 10:53:44 GMT
By far the most common cause of leaks on the 1911 magazines is the 6.5x1 O ring that sits in the bottom of the hole that the valve assy sits in. Where the white plastic valve seal butts up against the maazine well. Pete. You should make up a service kit for these and others Pete and sell em on here.
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Modski66
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Post by Modski66 on Jun 15, 2023 11:39:59 GMT
It sort of mimics the origional trades... i took the writing off my Remington 1911 as it was absolutely appauling but left it on the Tangfolio witness as i actually like it. What chemical concoction do you use on the zinc alloy to get the blued effect? I have had some success on small areas with Abbey Gun Blue, but never attempted a big job.
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gunman1964
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Post by gunman1964 on Jun 15, 2023 11:59:26 GMT
i use Birchwood Casey aluminium black or Birchwood Casey Perma Blu whichever works best . . . sometimes i have to make several attempts to get the finish i want..... it doesnt actually blu the gun and in my opinion is only good if an aged effect is required, This suits me as most of my replicas are either Western style or WW1 / WW2 .
firstly completely strip the gun remove all the paint and polish the parts that you want to blu thoroughly degrease the parts to blu the parts its best to do them one at a time Immerse the polished/degreased part into HOT water quickly dry and apply bluing solution whilst the part is still hot (small parts can be immersed in it) leave as per instructions then rinse in cold water VERY GENTLY polish up the part using 0000 steel wool (rub too hard and you will remove the gun blu finish) repeat if required. You can either lacquer to protect the finish it or (as i do) lightly oil it as per the real steel.
if you dont fancy it you could send it to me and i will do it for you (at cost of perma blu and postage )
The 1911 slide is the most difficult part to apply this effect to as it must be made from a slightly different alloy mixture to the rest of the pistol, I took a few attempt with my remington until i was happy with it , likewise my Browning Hi Power
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Modski66
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1911 Risk
Jun 15, 2023 18:44:56 GMT
via mobile
Post by Modski66 on Jun 15, 2023 18:44:56 GMT
Oooooh! That is a very tempting offer. 🤔
I might have a look to see how extensive the damage is, and if I can preserve the lettering in some way, ironic really since it's usually the lettering that gets my goat. 🐐🤬
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gunman1964
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Post by gunman1964 on Jun 15, 2023 19:40:01 GMT
PM me if you cant preserve the lettering and wish to take me up on the offer.
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Post by HeadHunter on Jun 16, 2023 8:04:08 GMT
I found the same thing with the slide versus frame material, I think that they use differing types of Zamac (there are loads of different grades of zamac) in the casting process, it might have something to do with function and strength of the actual parts being cast or even just better casting results (less flaws) for different shapes. But it does effect the results of the blueing solution, I ended up giving up and just spraying the parts for an even consistency and a better finish, I must admit that I heated the parts up in the oven, never thought of using HOT water as a way to increase they're temperature, I definitely missed a trick there fellas as that might have yielded better results. Personally I think that you should go for a glitterised pink spray paint and add diamante accents all over it, Look at this wonderful SIG P365..... www.cerakote.com/project-gallery/79015/pink-glittered-sig-sauer-p365-cerakoted-using-bazooka-pink-and-rose-goldIf that doesn't inspire you, I just don't know what will.....
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Modski66
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1911 Risk
Jun 16, 2023 20:50:00 GMT
via mobile
Post by Modski66 on Jun 16, 2023 20:50:00 GMT
Finally got around to taking some pictures of my recent acquisition. Whatever the paint black is seemed to have softened the paint on the pistol to the point where I can easily wipe it off with meths, I suspect it is smootherite or similar. Still mulling over how to proceed...
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Modski66
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Post by Modski66 on Jun 16, 2023 22:15:33 GMT
On a brighter note, a more thorough clean of the magazine valve, a jolly good tightening and the leak is gone! 😁
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