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Post by gavincall on Jun 7, 2023 7:52:59 GMT
Hello everyone, Does anyone have any advice, how to etc to dismantle, service/repair a colt saa valve? I now have a leaking spare as an ideal donor for my first attempt  |
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Post by HeadHunter on Jun 7, 2023 11:39:28 GMT
I have had a couple apart, they're not too difficult to work on even dismantle.
Keep us all updated on how you get on though buddy
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gunman1964
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Post by gunman1964 on Jun 7, 2023 14:54:07 GMT
Hello everyone, Does anyone have any advice, how to etc to dismantle, service/repair a colt saa valve? I now have a leaking spare as an ideal donor for my first attempt They dont seem too hard .... hope this helps  |
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Post by gavincall on Jun 11, 2023 10:41:45 GMT
There was nothing very revealing having dismantled it...  Hardest part of the job was buying a 10mm flat head screwdriver and grinding down the end so it fit into the valve seal socket. I'll replace the valve seal but nothing else looks worn or damaged. Anything I can do to improve performance before or when I reassemble? |
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Post by HeadHunter on Jun 11, 2023 11:16:54 GMT
I've not done any improvements to mine but I've spent literally hours & hours thinking about ways to do it and haven't been able to come up with a solution so far. When the hammer drops the 'nub' hits the valve stem and opens it up to allow the CO2 to pass through the system, there are no ports to open up and you can't increase the 'depth' of movement by either adding to the valve stem or adding to the hammer nub. I have thought about using a weaker spring which would allow the valve to remain open for slightly longer but when it resets it doesn't just close the valve off it actually pushes the hammer back via pressure on the hammer nub.
I've scratched my head over the solution many times, maybe a fresh set of eyes will see something that I've missed....
The actual valve unit itself is pretty well reamed out to max as well, so porting it further (to allow better gas flow) wouldn't yield much benefit either, I even thought about removing the original 'nub' on the hammer and replacing it with a steel version that would engage earlier and maybe push the valve slightly further but that seems a lot of work for minimal returns too.
I still think that a spring replacement might be a viable option, remaking the exact same spring shape from a thinner diameter piano wire might allow the port to be open for slightly longer and allow more CO2 to pass through the valve per 'hit' (so to speak).
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Post by gavincall on Jun 13, 2023 13:10:31 GMT
I'm not an expert...  but would tend to agree, apart from the spring there doesn't seem much else to adjust, know anyone that can make springs?  Any idea what 7-14 screw does and how tight that needs to be in its hole?? Whilst I wait for my new seal, I have realised that there is a part on the drawing that doesn't appear in the bits I have removed. On the parts list its listed as 7-12 and would appear to be a shim behind the co2 piercer, I cant find that part on any of the online part sellers, anyone know what it is? |
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Post by HeadHunter on Jun 13, 2023 14:16:19 GMT
Screw 7-14 in as hard as you can buddy, I think it's there as a way to release the gas from the system if you get a CO2 capsule stuck in the piercing end of the valve.
Part 7-12 is normally a fine mesh screen to stop debris from passing through and getting caught in the valve opening during operation.
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but would tend to agree, apart from the spring there doesn't seem much else to adjust, know anyone that can make springs? 
Any idea what 7-14 screw does and how tight that needs to be in its hole??