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Post by HeadHunter on Jun 2, 2022 10:40:07 GMT
I came across an interesting video whilst doing some research into buying a gold plated Chiappa Rhino 60DS, this guy tests the trigger pull (with a Lyman trigger gauge) before doing the modification and gets a reading of about 11lb 15oz in single action and after the modification is done he gets a result of around 5lb 15oz for the same single action, quite a dramatic difference !
I'm going to give this a go on my Chiappa Rhino 50SE and I'll post the results back to this thread once I've completed it but overall I was pretty impressed with the results that he got though.
EDIT (20/6/22)
I've done a detailed explanation of the whole process as I cannot guarantee that the youtube video won't be removed at some point in the future. To find it simply trawl this thread for the post.
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Doug Soal
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Post by Doug Soal on Jun 2, 2022 12:05:02 GMT
Certainly a very skilled chap, I wonder how he knew so much about the mechanism. I wouldn’t be brave enough to attempt it. Look forward to reading your write up Shaun.
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Post by HeadHunter on Jun 2, 2022 12:06:56 GMT
Certainly a very skilled chap, I wonder how he knew so much about the mechanism. I wouldn’t be brave enough to attempt it. Look forward to reading your write up Shaun. You've caught me just as I'm about to start mine.....brb (hopefully with some good news)  |
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Doug Soal
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Post by Doug Soal on Jun 2, 2022 12:08:39 GMT
Certainly a very skilled chap, I wonder how he knew so much about the mechanism. I wouldn’t be brave enough to attempt it. Look forward to reading your write up Shaun. You've caught me just as I'm about to start mine.....brb (hopefully with some good news)  Hope it goes well, I presume it will improve the DA as well. |
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Post by HeadHunter on Jun 2, 2022 16:02:41 GMT
Well good news and bad news.....
Good news, I copied the video instructions, fettled the parts, changed out the SA trigger sear spring and now the gun fires beautifully crisp and light in SA, in fact it's equal to any of my other revolvers when fired in SA.
Bad news, I copied the video instructions for the DA sear (PN: C745-G5) and totally 'balsed it up' (yep, that's the technical term for it), the gun will no longer cock the internal hammer when used in DA ! I can see what I'd done wrong and wouldn't suggest that it merits repeating by any other member.
But, I'm actually very happy to be totally honest, as I know that I'll fix the problem (once I get my head around it) and the SA performance of the Rhino has been improved tremendously, it's as easy as firing any of my other revolvers in SA. I'd guesstimate the trigger pull to be around the 4-5lb mark which is a whole heap of difference when you compare that against the 12lb trigger pull it had before.
So I'm going to get myself a Rhino 60DS (not sure which one yet) and I'll do the SA modification to it straight away. As for my 50DS, well I'll work out a way to repair the 'damage' that I've done, I've already got a few ideas that might work and get that back to full spec.
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Post by HeadHunter on Jun 3, 2022 10:29:23 GMT
For anyone interested in copying the modifications from the video, here's my thoughts about which ones to do to reduce the trigger pull in single action.
at 10:07 Part 'J2' - Do the modification to the part as in the video, remember to only slightly round the part exactly as described. He also changes the little spring for a lighter and much softer spring, I did this too and it's well worth doing as the original spring is very hard to compress and would definitely be one of the contributing factors to the heavy single action trigger pull.
at 10:29 Part 'J3' - Do the modification to the part as in the video, remember to remover the burrs that are left inside the pivot hole prior to seating it back into position or this will cause binding.
at 12:09 The hammer return spring - Do the modification to the spring as per the video, this will reduce the force of the return spring without compromising its function or integrity.
It seems to me that there's a lot of 'stacking forces' within the Rhino in SA that ultimately increases the trigger pull to such a degree that it makes it unworkable and too heavy, the modifications in the video do reduce the stacking force quite considerably. As for the rest of the modifications in the video, which relate more to the double action side than the single action performance, then I'd suggest leaving them be ! I did them to mine and in the process caused my Rhino to cease functioning in DA (it wouldn't cock the internal hammer) as it caused the DA sear to slip off the cocking block on the internal hammer.
The SA modifications are well worth the effort, reducing the trigger pull by at least half, which makes the gun far more comfortable to shoot in SA than it did before. I would whole heartily recommend doing the above modifications to any member who owns a Chiappa Rhino.
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Doug Soal
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Post by Doug Soal on Jun 11, 2022 11:14:53 GMT
For anyone interested in copying the modifications from the video, here's my thoughts about which ones to do to reduce the trigger pull in single action. at 10:07 Part 'J2' - Do the modification to the part as in the video, remember to only slightly round the part exactly as described. He also changes the little spring for a lighter and much softer spring, I did this too and it's well worth doing as the original spring is very hard to compress and would definitely be one of the contributing factors to the heavy single action trigger pull. at 10:29 Part 'J3' - Do the modification to the part as in the video, remember to remover the burrs that are left inside the pivot hole prior to seating it back into position or this will cause binding. at 12:09 The hammer return spring - Do the modification to the spring as per the video, this will reduce the force of the return spring without compromising its function or integrity. It seems to me that there's a lot of 'stacking forces' within the Rhino in SA that ultimately increases the trigger pull to such a degree that it makes it unworkable and too heavy, the modifications in the video do reduce the stacking force quite considerably. As for the rest of the modifications in the video, which relate more to the double action side than the single action performance, then I'd suggest leaving them be ! I did them to mine and in the process caused my Rhino to cease functioning in DA (it wouldn't cock the internal hammer) as it caused the DA sear to slip off the cocking block on the internal hammer. The SA modifications are well worth the effort, reducing the trigger pull by at least half, which makes the gun far more comfortable to shoot in SA than it did before. I would whole heartily recommend doing the above modifications to any member who owns a Chiappa Rhino. Did you get the D/A sorted Shaun |
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Post by HeadHunter on Jun 11, 2022 20:15:14 GMT
No, I haven't had a chance to strip it down again since I did the modifications but I have a cunning plan ! I'm hoping to get it done this coming week as the daughter has been off school for the past two weeks and the Mrs has been off work for a week and a half, so not had much opportunity to get in the shed and get it sorted......yet  I'm hoping to get my new Rhino next week too, still not too sure about which one to get Gold/Silver/Black, oh first world problems eh, lol  |
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Post by Doug Soal on Jun 11, 2022 21:24:42 GMT
I haven’t fired my gold airsoft version yet. I can’t decide whether to keep or sell to be honest. Not sure it’s really for me. I wouldn’t want to risk mucking it up doing the trigger upgrade.
If I do sell I will advertise on here first, although I guess a .177 version would be more popular here.
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Post by Modski66 on Jun 11, 2022 22:58:13 GMT
That depends on if anyone thought it feasible to 'play around with its tubes'. 🤔
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Post by HeadHunter on Jun 20, 2022 13:10:19 GMT
I've just completed the SA trigger modification to my new Gold Rhino and it's working even better than the 50DS that I did previously.
I'm going to do a complete write up (just in case the original youtube ever gets removed for whatever reason).....
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Post by Doug Soal on Jun 20, 2022 13:12:30 GMT
I've just completed the SA trigger modification to my new Gold Rhino and it's working even better than the 50DS that I did previously. I'm going to do a complete write up (just in case the original youtube ever gets removed for whatever reason)..... That’s good, did you leave the DA alone completely. |
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Post by HeadHunter on Jun 20, 2022 13:56:44 GMT
Full guide on how to do the SA trigger job on the Chiappa Rhino. I've decided to do a full 'how to' guide for doing this as I have no control of whether the original video will ever be removed and this is such an important modification that it warrants putting in a little extra work (from myself) to make sure that any other interested member can accomplish the task. Steps#1. Remove the cylinder from the frame, this will just help to make the whole process easier. You'll need a suitably sized allen key to remove the long grub screw that keeps the cylinder attached to the crane arm.  Once removed you'll have this....  And this....  #2. Remove the left hand grip and remove the four screws that secure the right hand grip to the frame.  The screws are all identical, so just pop them to one side with the grips for the moment.  #3. Next turn the gun over and remove the four side plate screws with a suitably sized star driver.  Once you've removed the side plate it should look like this.....  #4. Carefully lift out the hammer block c/w the cocking aid.  The safety switch will come out at the same time, now it's your choice as to whether you want to fit it back into the gun when you reassemble the gun, me ? I left it out ! #5. Unscrew the one screw (a cross head) that holds the Co2 valve and piercing assembly into the gun, then lift the unit out of the gun.  Once you have that out you should put the unit to one side.....  #6. now you should have the 'J2' part visible, lift it out of position along with the spring. This is the piece that will need a couple of slight modifications done to it.  Firstly it'll need to have that top most toe chamferred a little to ease with it's release, don't go crazy as it's only a small amount that needs to be removed and secondly the spring needs to be replaced with a lighter, lesser strength spring.  You can use either a fine file or a small piece of fine emery paper (240/360/400 grit) to round the edge back a small amount, better to under estimate the amount of material to remove than to over estimate. The original spring is quite strong and is what needs to be compressed by the trigger in order to release the SA sear, the only problem is the fact that you have to over come the trigger return spring and quite a few moving parts in the process which adds up to quite a bit of trigger weight stacking, so lightening it off any any point will help tremendously in reducing SA trigger pull. I managed to find a small enough spring in one of my tins that looks like it probably came from a cheap pen. #7. Take the trigger return spring from the frame, it'll look like this....  You'll just need to straighten the 'kink' out of the longest leg to reduce it's force slightly.  #8. Re-assemble the gun in the reverse order that you took it apart, the only problem that you will have is with the spring for the hammer's cocking aid. For this you just need to put the hammer (c/w cocking aid/cover) back into its correct place and then you can feed the spring back through as there's a section of its compartment that remains clear even when the hammer is back into position, once you started to feed it through you just need to push it into position so that it stays in it's compartment, it might take you a couple of tries but it's not difficult just a bit fiddly. Once you have got the side plate screwed back on check the action, try cocking it in SA and then in DA, if it feels jammed up then DON'T force it, remove the side plate and check that everything is in it's right place. I found that it never gave me a problem once the side plate was back on, so I can't see that it'll give anyone else one either. After the grips are back on and the cylinder is re-fitted then just give it some good double and single action testing, check that the cocking indicator is functioning as it should, the cylinder is rotating and locking up properly. #9. Pat yourself on the back and congratulate yourself on a job well done !  The first time I did it on my 50DS I managed to get the SA trigger pull easily done to a manageable level (guessing at around 5-6lbs) but when I did the 60DS I've got it down to a hair trigger (about 3lbs, a guesstimate) which is equal too, if not BETTER than some of my other revolvers ! This definitely a great modification to do to any Chiappa Rhino as it's only weakness was the incredibly heavy SA trigger pull but this makes it exactly the same as any other revolver now with a light and crisp SA and a tad heavier DA trigger. |
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Post by HeadHunter on Jun 20, 2022 14:11:05 GMT
I've just completed the SA trigger modification to my new Gold Rhino and it's working even better than the 50DS that I did previously. I'm going to do a complete write up (just in case the original youtube ever gets removed for whatever reason)..... That’s good, did you leave the DA alone completely. Oh yes ! Lesson learnt on that one Doug, lol. I can't believe how light the SA trigger is on the gun now though, it's almost a hair trigger, I'm guessing that I've managed to get it down to around 3lbs at best or 4lbs at worst ! I'm very happy, very happy indeed and really can't recommend this mod enough to any other Rhino owners out there ! The only bad thing.....I've now managed to put 'drag lines' on the cylinder from using it, lol. Looking forward to getting the barrel replaced now (I removed the original one earlier to send away to Modski66), then I'm going to start chucking lead at some targets, get it zero'ed in and get some plinking done with it ! |
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Doug Soal
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Post by Doug Soal on Jun 20, 2022 15:28:51 GMT
Hi Shaun, I suppose a small drag line is inevitable on such a smooth gold finish, although I find on other revolvers that the line will often just polish off with a soft cloth and a good wipe. Trigger sounds great now.
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